PHNOM PENH •• Sleeping
Budget
There are two popular backpacker strips, one
along the eastern shore of Boeng Kak and
the other around the long-running Capitol
Guesthouse along St 182 and St 111, just west
of Monivong Blvd. The area around Boeng
Kak has improved considerably, but the
rooms in these guesthouses are pretty basic
compared with elsewhere in the city. For those
who have seen enough of their fellow travel-
lers to last a lifetime, there are several smaller
guesthouses spread across the city.
BOENG KAK AREA
Most of the lakeside guesthouses are built
on wooden platforms over Boeng Kak, a se-
riously polluted body of water that no-one
should swim in, however much they have
drunk or smoked. The guesthouses used to
be rickety shacks with dodgy planking, but are
now more solidly built, with great communal
areas to while away the day. For some it’s like
ex periencing Ko Pha Ngan in the city, only
Boeng Kak isn’t quite the Gulf of Thailand.
Unfortunately, this whole area is slated for
redevelopment and work has already started
on pumping out the lake. This will be a great
loss to Phnom Penh, as this area has a unique
vibe, so enjoy it while you can. Sunsets over
the lake are not to be missed whether you are
staying here or not. Valuables should be kept
in lockers, as most rooms aren’t very secure.
Number 10 Lakeside Guesthouse (Map p79 ;
012 725032; 10 St 93; r US$2-8) This stalwart on
the lake has some bargain rooms with share
bathroom or bigger rooms with hot water
and cable TV. The drinking and dining area
(smoking and joking for others) is a mellow
place to hang out, and there’s a boozy boat
docked offshore.
Number 9 Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 012 766225;
9 St 93; r US$3-8; a) The very first lakefront
guesthouse is still a popular place thanks to
its blooming plants and billowing hammocks.
There are more than 50 rooms, but be selec-
tive as some are shabby.
Grand View Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 430766; St
93; r US$4-10; ai) Thailand meets Vietnam,
with boxy rooms à la Bangkok housed in a
tall, skinny structure à la Saigon. Upper floors
involve a real hike, but the views of the lake
are unrivalled.
Other places worth a flutter among the
many up here:
Same Same But Different (Map p79 ; 012 263332;
11 St 93; s/d/tr without bathroom US$2/3/4) More like
same same but the same. Comfortable beds and an invit-
ing lounge.
Floating Island (Map p79 ; 012 551227; 11 St 93; r
US$5-9; a) Rooms are much like everywhere else, but
there is a great double-decker terrace for a serious view
of the sunset.
Simon’s II Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 012 608892;
St 93; r US$10-15; a) This big wedding cake of a villa
is home to the smartest rooms near the lake, including
satellite TV and a bathroom.
PSAR O RUSSEI AREA
Another budget accommodation area starts
near Psar O Russei and heads south along a
network of backstreets.
Narin Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 982554; touch_narin@
hotmail.com; 50 St 125; r US$2-10; a) A long-running
family place, this still offers some real budget
deals, but rooms are quite basic. There is a
relaxed terrace for taking some time out.
Dragon Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 012 239066;
238 St 107; r US$5-10; a) A friendly little guest-
house, all rooms here include cable TV and
bathroom. There is also a lively balcony res-
taurant with an international menu.
Narin 2 Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 986131; 20 St 111;
r US$3-12; ai) More like a hotel, Narin 2 is
located just a few blocks away from the Narin.
Spring Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 222155; 34 St 111;
r US$6-12; a) An unfortunate typo on its card
says ‘bland new building’, but it’s all about
interior comfort and this place has bright,
spotless rooms, complete with cable TV.
Long-term discounts available.
Sunday Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 211623; 97 St 141; r
US$5-15; a) Rooms have been upgraded here,
but not prices, making for a fine deal. The
friendly English-speaking staff can help with
travel arrangements.
Sky Park Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 992718;
78 St 111; r US$6-20; a) One of a new breed of
smart guesthouses in this part of town, the
Sky Park is a real bargain for such cleanli-
ness and comfort. Air-con starts at US$10
and all rooms have cable TV and hot water,
and there’s even a lift.
Good Luck Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 012 882936; 74 St
115; r US$6-20; a) Almost an identikit of the Sky
Park, but maroon rather than orange.
Other good spots in this area:
Tat Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 986620; 52 St 125;
r US$2-10; a) A friendly, family-run place with cheap
and cheerful rooms, plus a breezy rooftop restaurant.
Capitol Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 724104; capitol@
online.com.kh; 14 St 182; r US$3-16; ai) The original
guesthouse in town has several annexes with good-value
rooms and a bustling café with travel info.
The King Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 220512; www
.thekingangkor.com; 74 St 141; r US$3-25; ai) The
range of rooms is as wide as the king’s girth (that’s Elvis,
not Sihamoni!) and there is a huge restaurant and travel
centre downstairs.
AROUND THE CITY
Other guesthouses are spread evenly across
the city.
Okay Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 012-920556; St 258; r
US$2-15; a) Okay is more than OK thanks to a
popular restaurant, an appealing garden, great
rooms and the best backpacker vibe beyond
Boeng Kak. Budget rooms start with share
bathroom, and top whack brings air-con, TV
and hot water.
Top Banana Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 012 885572;
www.topbanana.biz; cnr Sts 51 & 278; r US$5-13; a) In a
great location on a popular corner opposite
Wat Langka, this place has a rooftop chill-out
area above the dust. Cheap rooms have a share
bathroom, while the more expensive include
brisk air-con.
Royal Guesthouse (Map p79 ; 218026;
91 St 154; r US$6-12; a) This old-timer has been
given a major facelift, with smart rooms,
sparkling bathrooms and tasteful dec-
oration. In a good location, there is also a
café-restaurant here.
Dara Reang Sey Hotel (Map p79 ; 428181;
[email protected]; 45 St 13; r US$6-16; a)
This long-running place has good-value
rooms, and the family here really look after
the staff.
The Last Home (Map p79 ; 012 831702; 21 St 172;
r US$6-20; a) Recently relocated to a dapper
new building behind Wat Ounalom, Last
Home has a loyal following among regular
visitors. Added extras include cable TV and
newish bathrooms.